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THE 

•HULUTAMNA' 
•f  ttTe  CAMP 
IRE  GIRLS 


THE 

SHUL  U  TAM  NA 

(IN  FULL  DRESS -WITH  ALL  BEADS  ON) 
OF    THE 

cnnp  FIRE  GIRLS 


BY 

CHARLOTTE  V.  GULICK 


(HIITEHI) 


PUBLISHED    BY 

CAMP    FIRE   OUTFITTING   CO. 

NEW   YORK 

1915 


Copyright  1915 

by 

Camp  Fire   Outfitting   Co. 
New  York 


The  Camp  Fire  Girls'  uniform  is  patterned  after 
the  dress  of  the  Indian  woman.  It  was  chosen  be- 
cause the  lines  of  the  primitive  American  woman's 
dress  were  simple  and  becoming  to  all  girls  and  would 
not  go  out  of  fashion,  and  it  could  be  made  individual 
without  destroying  its  uniformity. 

No  outing  or  school  dress  could  be  designed  which 
would  meet  such  requirements.  The  costume  is  signi- 
ficant for  the  following  reasons : 

ist.  It  is  never  completed.  Girls  can  go  on 
decorating  it  all  their  lives,  yet  it  can  be 
worn  as  soon  as  the  seams  are  sewed. 
It  can  be  worn  any  season  of  the  year. 

2nd.  It  is  so  inexpensive  that  all  girls  can 
have  it.  The  poorest  girl  can  make  it 
as  beautiful  and  symbolic  as  the  richest. 
In  Grand  Councils  it  is  impossible  to 
tell  the  rich  girl  from  the  poor  girl.  The 
decorations,  though,  may  distinguish  the 
romantic,  nature-loving  girl  from  the 
artificial,  shallow  girl. 

3rd.  It  binds  girls  of  all  parts  of  the  country 
together  during  the  most  impressionable 
years.  It  points  toward  the  most  com- 
plete team  play.  When  Guardians  let 
their  hair  down  and  put  on  this  simple 
gown  they  become  one  with  their  girls. 
It  symbolizes  oneness.  The  girls  feel  it. 

335165 


This  is  the  first  large  organization  of  women  that 
has  adopted  a  ceremonial  uniform.  Many  organiza- 
tions of  men  have  uniforms.  The  cap  and  gown 
worn  by  college  graduates  comes  the  nearest  to  it, 
but  this  is  worn  by  both  men  and  women. 

It  is  not  intended  that  the  use  of  symbols  and 
symbolic  decorations  shall  be  confined  to  the  cere- 
monial dress.  On  the  contrary,  the  girls  are  encour- 
aged to  individualize  all  their  possessions,  including 
their  apparel  in  this  way.  The  use  of  soft-toned 
stencils  combined  with  embroidery  in  the  manner 
shown  here  is  applicable  to  veils,  collars,  waists  and 
frocks  and  also  to  the  decoration  of  one's  room. 

The  drawings  in  this  book  are  intended  to  stimulate 
the  imagination  of  Camp  Fire  Girls  in  the  designing 
of  their  symbols  and  the  decorative  treatment  of 
their  costumes.  It  is  also  intended  as  a  guide  to  some 
of  the  basic  principles  of  design  in  its  relation  to  dress, 
especially  in  regard  to  the  effective  treatment  of 
various  types  of  the  human  figure. 

The  Meaning  of  the  Ceremonial  Dress 

As  the  Camp  Fire  movement  grew  out  of  camp 
life  for  girls,  a  life  that  was  simple  and  close  to  the 
heart  of  nature,  the  first  Camp  Fire  gown  was  natur- 
ally one  of  simple  lines  and  soft  color,  planned  after 


the  simple  buckskin  gown  of  the  Indian  maiden,  which 
has  been  reproduced  in  khaki  with  leather  fringes 
and  decorated  with  bright-colored  honor  beads.  The 
gown  is  seen  at  its  best  in  the  woods,  where  its  har- 
mony with  the  greens  of  nature  makes  the  girl  as 
much  a  part  of  the  landscape  as  any  squirrel  or 
thrush. 

But  the  gown  is  beautiful  in  itself,  wherever  seen, 
and  lends  an  unfailing  charm  to  the  girl  who  wears 
it.  With  her  ceremonial  gown  each  girl  wears  her 
hair  either  hanging  or  in  braids  over  her  shoulders, 
bound  with  a  bead-band  in  Indian  fashion.  All  differ- 
ences in  taste  and  fashion  are  obliterated,  and  as 
the  girls  gather  in  a  circle  about  the  fire  at  twilight, 
a  picture  is  formed  that  has  distinctive  character  and 
much  beauty. 

It  is  because  of  these  things  that  the  costume  means, 
as  well  as  for  its  beauty,  that  Camp  Fire  Girls 
everywhere  are  urged  to  accept  no  substitute  for  the 
standard  gown,  of  Government  Khaki  and  leather, 
which  should  be  made  seven  inches  from  the  floor, 
for  guardians  and  girls  alike.  Bloomers  of  khaki- 
colored  muslin  should  be  worn  with  the  dress,  dark 
brown  stockings  the  color  of  the  fringe,  and  dark 
brown  moccasons.  The  gown  should  be  kept  in  the 
best  of  condition,  worn  at  the  ceremonial  meetings 
only,  and  should  never  appear  in  the  streets  or  in 
street  cars  except  with  a  long  coat. 

7 


Most  girls  begin  by  decorating  the  gown  with  their 
own  symbols,  which  may  be  embroidered,  stencilled 
wood-blocked,  or  worked  in  bead  decorations.  A 
girl  who  is  fond  of  canoeing,  for  instance,  may  have 
for  her  symbol  a  girl  in  a  canoe,  which,  repeated, 
would  form  an  effective  border  above  the  fringe  of 
her  gown.  A  Guardian  often  uses  the  symbols  of 
all  her  girls  as  decorations  and  a  girl  may  add  her 
Guardian's  symbol,  or  some  decoration  that  stands 
for  her  father  or  mother,  her  brother  or  sister,  any- 
one who  has  been  an  ideal  to  her  or  played  an  im- 
portant part  in  her  life. 

The  honor  beads  may  be  worn  as  a  necklace  or  in 
long,  straight  strings,  having  one  for  each  craft,  or 
in  some  other  combination.  Those  that  are  won  by 
repeated  honors  and  do  not  count  for  ranks  might 
best  be  placed  by  themselves,  perhaps  sewed  to  the 
gown  as  decorations.  No  meaningless  beads  or 
decorations  of  any  kind  should  be  used.  A  special 
place  should  be  kept  also  for  National  honors.  Some 
girls  are  decorating  the  shoulders  with  these  precious 
symbols  of  service  to  the  National  organization, 
some  are  using  them  at  the  side  seams,  others  wear 
them  straight  down  the  front  of  the  dress. 

But  the  ceremonial  dress  is  not  altogether  a  solemn 
affair,  for  it  may  bear  record  too  of  the  jolliest  of 
hikes  and  camping  trips,  in  stencilled  designs,  sym- 
bolic buttons  or  bead  pockets.  One  Camp  Fire  Girl 


buttonholed  a  bright-colored  leaf  to  the  gown  as  a 
souvenir  of  a  happy  day  in  the  autumn  woods.  The 
leaf  crumbled  away  in  time  but  the  outline  remained. 

The  chief  caution  to  be  remembered  in  decorating 
the  gown,  if  it  is  to  be  beautiful  as  well  as  full  of 
meaning,  is  to  begin  with  a  plan  carefully  thought 
out  and  keep  an  artistic  balance  in  the  arrangement 
of  decorations.  It  mars  the  effect  to  have  large  spots 
of  bright  color  placed  thoughtlessly  here  and  there, 
catching  the  eye  against  its  will.  But  decorations  in 
soft  tones,  following  the  lines  of  the  gown,  enrich  it 
and  add  to  its  meaning  as  well.  It  is  a  splendid 
thing  for  each  girl  to  design  her  own  decorations  as 
far  as  possible,  but  she  can  usually  have  the  help 
and  advice  of  her  Guardian  or  of  some  one  specially 
skilled  in  design,  for  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
facts  about  Camp  Fire  has  been  the  willingness  of 
those  who  have  some  special  skill  to  help  whenever 
they  are  asked. 

There  are  already  many  Camp  Fire  gowns  in  ex- 
istence that  are  precious  records  of  the  heart  lives 
of  their  wearers,  and  that  will  perhaps  be  handed 
down  to  their  children's  children  as  a  gift  as  sacred 
and  far  more  vital  than  the  samplers  of  our  grand- 
mothers ;  because  these  are  of  the  girls'  own  voluntary 
thought  and  work,  and  represent  the  dawning  con- 
sciousness of  woman's  power  when  all  that  is  wom- 
anly in  her  is  developed  and  set  to  work  in  our  modern 
world. 


PAHUKATIUA,  READY-TO -GIVE 

MY  SYMBOL.  IS  CORN  AND  THE  \\\\\ 
COUNCIL-FIRE.  I  CHOSE  THIS  BECAUSE  * 
MY  GIVEN  NAME  MEANS  GIFT  OF*  GOD 
-AND  THE  CORN/IS  THE  DIPT  WHICH  THE 
INDIANS  USED  TO  INVITE  OTHER  TRIBELS 
TO  THEIR  COUNCIL-FIRES. THUS  THE  \/V 
CORN  STANDS  FDR  HOSPITALITY  AHO  ZZ 
GENEROSITY,  TWO  QUALITIES  WHICH  I 
WISH  TO  ACQUIRE. 


10 


F 


PAHUKATIWA 

THE:  CORN  SYMBOL  is  SHOWN  IN  HER 

BEAD  BAND  AND   DECORATION  OF 
HER  COSTUME.) 


11 


i.  Ci-ku-des-ka  (song  bird)  wears  her  symbolic 
bird  on  the  leather  band  at  the  neck.  She  sewed 
the  bird  in  blue  beads  for  happiness,  and  surrounded 
it  with  yellow  beads,  because  he  sings  in  the  early 
light  after  the  morning  stars  have  set.  The  stars 
are  on  the  long  strips  of  leather  hanging  from  her 
shoulders.  Ci-ku-des-ka  is  short  and  stout  so  the 
leather  strips  give  her  height.  On  her  leather  cuffs 
she  cut  a  symbol  for  the  bird's  song  and  the  bead 
band  above  it  is  symbolic  of  clouds  and  sky.  She  won 
four  Wokan  national  honors,  which  she  sewed  along 
the  side  seams.  Her  honor  beads  are  arranged  in 
strings  to  follow  the  long  lines  of  her  gown  and  the 
curve  of  her  neck. 


12 


1.  CI-KU-DES-KA 
SONG    BIRD 


13 


2.  Nan-ko  (path)  is  short,  so  she  has  symbolized 
her  path  in  the  long  leather  band  which  comes  around 
her  neck  and  down  the  front  to  give  her  height.  She 
left  spaces  on  this  in  which  to  place  symbols  of  her 
adventures  along  the  way.  These  she  will  carve  in 
woodblocks  and  print  in  the  spaces.  The  long  end 
of  the  band  she  fringed  and  on  this  she  strung  some 
of  her  honor  beads.  The  path  symbol  on  the  bottom 
of  her  skirt,  with  two  blazes,  points  the  way  for  the 
footprints  (round  spots)  to  go.  On  her  sleeve  is 
the  symbol  of  her  Camp  Fire  Group.  She  has  kept 
the  small  decorations  on  her  gown  in  a  few  big 
spaces,  so  that  the  effect  is  one  of  richness  but  sim- 
plicity. 


2.    NAN-KQ 
PATH 


15 


3.  Mi-ni-sa  (red  water)  chose  her  name  because 
she  loves  to  canoe  at  sunset.  She  has  decorated  the 
neck  and  shoulders  of  her  gown  and  the  bottom  of  her 
skirt.  Her  string  of  honor  beads,  representing  a 
river,  follows  the  line  of  her  collar,  ending  in  a 
bead  tassel  of  sparkling  water.  It  is  held  in  place 
by  round  beaded  spots  symbolic  of  wind  and  lake. 
The  bead  spot  on  the  right  shoulder  is  balanced  by 
the  symbol  of  her  Camp  Fire  group  on  the  left 
shoulder.  Her  collar  is  symbolic  of  flowing  water. 
On  her  skirt  is  a  canoe  in  the  waves,  above  it  the 
sun  with  rays  pointing  to  the  four  winds.  She  is  a 
tall  girl  and  the  lines  of  decoration  cutting  across  her 
gown  shorten  its  effect. 


16 


3.   Ml-NI-SA 
RED  WATER 


17 


4-  This  Camp  Fire  Girl  is  Bon-son-gee  (the  new 
fire).  Fire  is  her  symbol  of  life  and  health.  She 
used  it  in  the  decoration  of  her  leather  collar,  on 
the  bottom  of  her  skirt  andmoccasons,  woven  in  bead 
bands  on  the  leather  collar  and  above  the  cuffs  and 
fringes.  The  arrow-shaped  piece  in  the  center  of  her 
collar  is  the  Indian  medicine  man's  symbol,  which 
expresses  her  desire  to  study  medicine.  On  her  skirt 
is  a  rectangle  symbolizing  her  love  of  outdoor  life, 
with  eight  little  triangles  representing  the  mountains 
she  has  climbed.  This  wide  decoration  and  the  deep 
collar  help  to  make  her  look  less  tall  and  thin.  Her 
three  strings  of  honor  beads  are  for  work,  health 
and  love. 


IN 


.    BON-SON-GEE 
THE   NEW  TIRE 


19 


5.  Can-hute  (roots  of  a  tree)  has  a  tree  symbol 
with  seven  roots  of  the  Camp  Fire  Law.  The  symbol 
is  cut  out  of  leather  to  decorate  the  cuffs.  Just  above 
this  is  a  bead  decoration  symbolizing  the  branches  of 
the  tree  with  its  fruit.  Each  fruit  is  a  special  color 
representing  some  achievement.  In  the  bead  bands 
on  the  skirt  are  symbols  of  the  girls  in  her  Group. 
The  honor  beads  are  arranged  around  the  neck  with 
three  beaded  circles  of  work,  health  and  love.  Can- 
hute  put  her  health  beads  among  the  fringes  at  her 
feet  and  beads  won  with  her  hands  in  the  fringes 
on  the  under  arm  seams.  The  border  at  the  bottom 
makes  a  cross  line  on  the  dress  which  shortens  its 
appearance. 


20 


S.  CAN-HUTE 
ROOTS  of  &  TREC 


6.  The. symbol  on  this  dress  is  a  river  with  rocks, 
Ni-chia  (river)  being  the  girl's  Indian  name.  She 
wove  her  symbol  in  bead  bands  to  wear  on  the  collar, 
above  the  cuffs  and  the  fringe  at  the  bottom  of  the 
skirt.  The  leather  collar,  cuffs  and  pieces  decorating 
the  slits  at  the  side  seams  of  the  skirt  are  cut  to 
symbolize  three  pointed  rocks  of  work,  health  and 
love.  Her  string  of  honor  beads  is  also  in  three 
parts  and  continues  the  pointed  lines  of  her  collar. 
There  is  opportunity  for  more  decoration  on  the 
collar,  sleeves  and  bottom  of  the  skirt  as  Ni-chia  has 
new  experiences  which  she  wishes  to  record  on  her 
gown.  Her  national  honors  can  be  placed  along  the 
side  seams. 


-22 


6.      Ni-CHIA 
RIVER 


23 


y.  This  gown  has  the  skirt  decorated  with  a 
fringe  of  honor  beads.  Thongs  fastened  to  an  Indian 
woman's  dress  in  this  way  mean  paths.  They  could 
be  arranged  in  groups  of  sevens  and  threes  or  in 
numbers  having  a  special  meaning  to  the  wearer. 
Many  honor  beads  can  be  added  to  the  necklace, 
which  is  fastened  to  the  gown  so  as  to  follow  the 
line  of  the  brown  leather  collar.  If  the  girl  is  fond 
of  home  craft,  the  little  beads  decorating  the  tassels 
on  the  ends  of  the  necklace  can  be  flame-colored. 
Honor  beads  can  also  be  fastened  to  the  sleeves  on 
thongs  decorated  with  little  flame-colored  beads. 


24 


N0.7 


25 


8.  The  beauty  of  a  group  of  girls  in  their  Shulu- 
tamnas  is  that  they  are  all  dressed  in  khaki,  in  simple 
straight  lines,  fringed  with  brown  leather,  seven 
inches  from  the  floor.  If  one  girl  wears  a  belt  she 
spoils  the  silhouette  of  the  whole  group  by  having 
her  gown  cut  across  at  the  waist  line.  The  stockings 
and  moccasons  should  be  the  same  color  and  as  dark 
as  the  brown  leather  fringes,  otherwise  there  will  be 
a  break  between  the  fringe  and  her  feet. 


NO.  8 


9.  The  line  down  the  centre  of  this  moccason 
makes  the  foot  look  longer  and  narrower.     It  sym- 
bolizes  a   river  with   rocks.      It  can  be   worn  with 
gown  No.  6. 

10.  The  symbol  in  the  centre  is  a  pathway  over 
a  mountain.    The  light  band  around  it  is  also  a  path 
and  the  little  dark  spots,  going  around  the  heel  are 
foot  prints.     This  can  be  worn  with  No.  2. 

n.  The  star  symbol  on  the  top  of  this  moccason 
is  in  yellow  beads  with  a  black  background.  It  sym- 
bolizes the  guiding  star  in  the  night. 

1 2.  This  moccason  has  a  round  symbol  in  the  centre 
for  Dance,  with  little  notes  of  music.  Around  the 
edge  is  a  wavy  line  of  motion. 


HO*  1O 


N0.11 


NO.  12, 


29 


13.  The  Head  bands  should  be  woven  of  beads 
that  contrast  in  dark  and  light  so  that  in  the  firelight 
they  will  show  well.  This  head  band  is  decorated 
with  figures  symbolizing  rocks  and  has  long  ends 
which  hang  down  with  the  braids  of  hair. 


30 


NO.  13. 


31 


14-  The  head  band  may  be  fastened  by  braiding 
the  threads  on  the  ends  and  tying  on  beads  symbolic 
in  their  color.  This  band  has  a  symbol  of  home  with 
open  doors,  showing  the  fire.  On  each  side  are  the 
seven  faggots  of  the  law.  On  the  ends  are  diamonds 
for  personality  with  three  barbed  arrows  pointing 
toward  the  home. 

15.  This  head  band  is  finished  with  a  bead  tassel 
at  the  side.  The  symbol  is  an  owl  for  a  studious  girl. 


32 


» 


NO. 


33 


1 6.  Arrange  your  honor  beads  rhythmically,  like 
the  beats  of  a  drum.  If  you  are  fond  of  music  ex- 
press it  by  stringing  your  beads  in  the  time  of  some 
favorite  composition.  Let  your  big  honors  be  accents 
on  your  string.  Little  beads,  in  green,  the  color  of 
creation,  strung  between  your  honor  beads  make  a 
decorative  chain. 


NO.  16 


1 7.  Strings  of  small  beads  symbolic  in  color  be- 
tween your  honor  beads  are  effective. 

1 8.  This  is  made  by  sewing  the  honor  beads  be- 
tween two  leather  thongs  with  small  beads  on  the 
outisde,  ending  it  with  a  tassel. 

19.  Here  is  a  tassel  made  of  honor  beads  and 
leather  which  could  be  hung  in  the  slits  at  the  side 
seams. 


NO.  IV 


37 


These  two  arrangements  for  honor  bead  neck- 
laces could  be  caught  to  the  gown  so  as  to  keep  them 
in  good  lines.  The  different  colors  of  the  beads 
should  be  arranged  so  that  they  combine  well. 


38 


NO-  2.0 


22.  Honor  beads  strung  on  the  neck  lacings  of  the 
gown. 

23.  Fringe   the   ends   of   your   collar"  and    string 
your  honor  beads  on  these. 


10 


NO.  2.2 


MO.  2,3 


24.  Honor  beads  can  be  hung  on  leather  thongs 
from  the  collar  on  the  back  of  your  gown. 

25.  A  necklace  with  three  strings  for  work,  health 
and  love. 


NO. 


NO.  as 


Two  ways  of  arranging  honor  beads  from  leather 
straps  on  the  shoulders. 


44 


NO-  26 


NO.  ar 


45 


28.  A  beaded  rosette  with  a  tassel  of  honor  beads 
hanging  from  the  centre. 

29.  Honor  beads  used  with  a  Wokan    national 
honor. 

30.  The  ends  of  long  leather  bands,  which  hang 
from  the  shoulders  can  be  fringed  and  decorated 
with  honor  beads. 


46 


47 


THIS  BOOK  IS  T)TJE  ON  THE  LAST  DAT. 
STAMPED  BELOW 


AN     INITIAL     FINE     OF    25    CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  5O  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  'JAY 
OVERDUE. 


MAR  17  1933 

MAY  151933 
19  1933 


MAR  28  1935 


APR  11  1946 


LD  21-50m-l,'33 


